Located on Howell Mountain, an old premium wine growing area, the La Jota winery dates back to 1898 when German newspaperman Frederick Hess built the historic stone structure that to this day houses La Jota's wine operations. Two years later, in 1900, a Cabernet Sauvignon grown just up the road from La Jota won a gold metal at the Paris Exposition.
La Jota's current history harkens back to 1974, when Bill Smith acquired the winery and 40 acres of surrounding land. In 1978 Bill married Joan and as part of their honeymoon they planted the first vines consisting of 2 acres of Zinfandel. For years theirs was a home winemaking experience shared with family and friends. Crush parties consisted of their best friends and their kids, all six of them, stomping grapes with their feet in clean trash cans. In those days everything was very labor intensive and rustic. Bill began studying winemaking through courses at UC Davis and purchased Cabernet Sauvignon from a local Howell Mountain vineyard.
The planting continued and, by 1978, 28 acres of vineyard had been developed. As their experience grew and the winemaking became more than a hobby, Bill and Joan decided it was time to re-commercialize the winery. By 1982 they had received their bond to be an "official" wine producer.
Bill was the winemaker then and still is today. Randy Dunn and Helen Turley have put a hand in as consultants here and there but mostly Bill developed his own style of very traditional winemaking. He holds down crop size and pursues a hands-on small batch approach in the cellar. He feels there are certain things you can and can't control and that Nature must basically take control when possible. The wines are aged in 60 gallon barrels mainly from the Never and Allier forests in France.
Joan Smith facilitates the sales and marketing aspects of the company and is also a large part of the success of La Jota. Although their wines are in huge demand now, Joan spent many years developing a customer list of many of the finest restaurants and wine shops around the country. Joan says "Being a part of La Jota has been, and is, a terrific experience and opportunity. Looking a back and seeing the evolution we've made in our winemaking and vineyard practices is very satisfying. Bill is committed to growing the best fruit he can and producing the very best wine he can with that fruit. We don't take shortcuts or compromise, therefore we're able to produce a product we can be very proud of."
In 1985, the first wine to be marketed under the La Jota Vineyard Co. label was released for sale. At that time approximately 440 cases of 1982 Zinfandel (made from estate grapes) and 550 cases of Cabernet Sauvignon (from local Howell Mountain fruit) was released to mark the beginning of La Jota's new commercial wine commitment. By the time the 1984 harvest rolled around the Cabernet Sauvignon was produced entirely from estate vineyards.
In 1987, Bill and Joan announced the release of their first Viognier, made in 1986. The Smith's were among the first to introduce Viognier, a rare white wine grape from Rhone just south of the Cote Rotie, to modern California winemaking. Bill continued to produce superb Viognier but in extremely limited quantities, normally limiting purchases to 2 bottles per customer. In 1993, Bill began to expand the Viognier program, producing Barrel Fermented and Cold Fermented Viogniers, and even a one time only Late Harvest Viognier. Last year's release of the 1997 vintage marked the final release for La Jota's Cold and Barrel Fermented Viognier programs. The then 3 acres of Viognier was grafted over to three clones of Petite Sirah from Randy Dunn and Tom Burgess to increase the red wine program.
In 1986 La Jota began producing the now highly acclaimed Cabernet Franc. "We never had very much Cabernet Franc," says Bill Smith, "and we always blended it into our Cabernet Sauvignon. But in 1986 our Cabernet Franc berries were so ripe, dark and full of rich blackberry flavors, and everyone at the winery thought it was such a great wine, that I decided to keep it separate and blend it in later. The more I tasted it, the more we talked about it, the more convinced I became that we should bottle it alone."
Then, in 1991, to commemorate the tenth anniversary of Cabernet production, a new label and "Anniversary" series began. This wine represented an increased focus and intensity on the winegrowing and winemaking principles that have led to the success of the La Jota Cabernet program. Through small batch fermentation the very best lots are selected and all Anniversary Cabernet is aged in 100% new French oak barrels-all estate grown, produced and bottled.
Also in 1991 the Smiths began a new endeavor of production of the first vintage of Petite Sirah, which was released in 1993. Recently, 3 acres of Viognier were grafted over to Petite Sirah for an estate grown product. From time to time Bill Smith has produced non-estate grown wines such as Carignane, Petite Sirah and Chardonnay, but the cornerstone of La Jota continues to be their extraordinary Cabernets.
Currently the 28 acres of estate vines consist of 19 acres of Cabernet Sauvignon, 4 acres of Cabernet Franc, 3 acres of Merlot and 3 acres of Petite Sirah. Production totals approximately 3500 cases annually.
Last year, Bill and Joan moved into their stunning, newly built home three-quarters of a mile from the winery. Built on a 40-acre parcel, this property has 7 acres of intensely planted vines referred to as "Piedra Hill". Interestingly enough, these 7 acres have more vines planted than the 28 acres of older vineyards. Bill and Joan expect the first harvest from these young vines to be in the year 2000.
Bill and Joan's passion for winemaking directed them to a new venture of producing Burgundian-style wines in recent years. In 1995 Bill and Joan released their first Pinot Noir's produced from the Sonoma Coast region under a new name and label, "W.H. Smith Wines". Currently most efforts for W.H. Smith Wines have been focused on Pinot Noir produced from the "Hellenthal" vineyard approximately 3 miles from the Pacific Ocean and 10 miles north of the Russian River. Using a different process from the La Jota reds, Bill uses whole berries and clusters at harvest and during fermentation the wine is gently punched down by hand 3 to 4 times per day. Not pumped, fined or filtered, and pushed only by gravity of with nitrogen, the wine is caressed with gentle care throughout bottling.
Additionally, Bill and Joan purchased 360 acres of land in the Sonoma Coast Appellation in 1996 and have to date planted 11 acres of Pinot Noir on a 3 foot by 6 foot spacing, allowing 2420 vines per acre. The Smiths hope to harvest some of their estate Pinot Noir fruit in 2000.
If you ask Bill and Joan what they want to do in the future they will say they are doing it now. Living their dream, and enjoying every minute. They have made a name for themselves on the California wine scene and deserve every bit of it.